Worn metal is caused by little or no lubrication. Auto-Rx®cannot repair worn metal, but it can remove existing contaminants to allow oil to lubricate fully, thus altering the effects of worn metal.
Yes, hold the bottle under hot tap water for 10 minutes. Shake well, and it will be as good as new! When poured into the oil reservoir, Auto-Rx® takes on the viscosity of the motor oil. It does not change the chemistry of the oil.
There are many automobile engines that have worn or fouled stem seals without any appreciable loss in compression. Normally, a stem seal's lack of integrity results in burning oil caused by oil seeping down into the combustion chamber, usually causing a plume of blue smoke during cold starts, acceleration, or deceleration. Many cars run just fine with less than perfect valve stem seals. But frequently, with more than desirable amounts of oil being burned in the combustion chamber, it becomes much more likely that the piston rings will become coked up from poor fuel efficiency. When the rings, particularly the top two compression rings, get bonded together, they cannot work independently and compression suffers. If this is your case, then you can expect great improvement from an Auto-Rx(r) cleaning and rinse. Also, many times with oil burning from poor stem seals, deposits form at the interface of the valve and its seat at the head, resulting in poor sealing and lost compression. Auto-Rx(r) would help here also. Auto-Rx(r) can also clean oil contaminants from the polymer valve stem seal material. After cleaning, they sometimes rebound to good functionality.
White smoke is almost always associated with water or, more accurately, steam exiting the tailpipe. It is odd that we would not see it during a cold startup and do see it after the motor has semi-cooled down. As you know, the motor is ingesting airborne humidity with every intake stroke. Many times, the exhaust system loads itself with water after the motor is shut down, simply by the pipes cooling and the water vapor condensing. Upon restarting the car, as the exhaust heats up, the water in the exhaust vaporizes and exits the tailpipe as steam. Perhaps if you were to watch the exhaust on a cold start in the morning ,it would go through the same steam phase as it does after your highway run. The difference being that it takes a lot longer to build up the heat from dead cold. With today's catalytic converters that re-burn unburned fuel from the combustion process, 3000 degrees at the converter are achieved. I doubt that the exhaust system has lost its heat totally during a 45-minute shutdown. However, back near the muffler and tailpipe area, it is likely to have cooled and condensed some moisture. Then, when you start the car, some very hot air from the convertor area quickly flows to the back end of the exhaust at restart.
If you have no head gasket issues, whereby water/coolant is getting into your oil or being sucked into the combustion chamber, then I would tend to think that you may not have any real issue. If water was being sucked right into the combustion chamber, it would be smoking white all the time. If you have water droplets on the oil dipstick, or a frothy mess, then you have a head gasket issue.
I hope this is helpful to you. Used oil analysis could also tell if you have coolant leaking into the oil.
The cleaning dose of Auto-Rx® constitutes the addition of 3 fluid ounces per quart into the crankcase. In any automobile motor, this will not create an overfill problem with regards to sump capacity. To even further diminish the concern, the Auto-Rx® will get some absorption into the deposits in the motor, such as varnish or sludge deposits as it begins to penetrate the binders of these deposits.
Also the Auto-Rx® blend of esters has some polarity and will be attracted to clean metal surfaces, and some amount of Auto-Rx® will remain on these surfaces after the motor has been turned off.
We know of no automotive motor design that cannot tolerate this amount of Auto-Rx® added on top of a full oil fill. However, for small four-stroke motor applications (such as lawnmowers, snow blowers, etc.), please apply the appropriate amount of Auto-Rx® for the oil sump capacity.
Auto-Rx® is the same chemistry for engines as transmissions, but the ratio changes. Transmission fluid is highly viscous hydraulic fluid in a sealed unit; 6 ounces of Auto-Rx® is all that is needed. Please visit our transmission page for more information.
To use Auto-Rx to its best possible performance, mineral motor oil is recommended. Some motor designs have been listed as possibly at higher risk of engine sludging. This may be due to small sump capacity, turbo charging, and excessively small drain holes out of the heads that are prone to getting clogged or plugged.
Whatever the case may be, your dealer is likely giving you good advice. However, in an Auto-Rx application, you will be running the oil change interval for only 2500 miles during the cleaning phase and then a fresh oil change for 3000 miles known as the rinse phase. There is no daily driver automotive engine that suffers from running a mineral motor oil (conventional) for such a short duration. Besides it's a lot cheaper.
If you insist on running a synthetic oil during your Auto-Rx cleaning and rinse application, I suggest running a Group III synthetic oil. This is still a mineral oil but is more highly refined and has properties, such as pour point and durability, very close to what is referred to as a full synthetic or Group IV oil. Most Group IV oils contain a relatively high level of esters in their formulation and do not perform as well during the rinse phase in particular. This is due to the polar nature of the esters, which tend to help the oil cling to the metal parts, instead of draining or rinsing off.
Once you have completed the cleaning and rinsing of your application(s), then the use of the Auto-Rx maintenance program can be used with any oil.
When proper lubrication fails to occur, uneven hot spots are created underneath contamination deposits. The result? A dramatic decrease in your engine's performance.
It's inevitable: engine sludge and contamination build-up are working together this very second with the sole objective of killing your engine.
As you start to get oil on metal that has been starved for lubrication there will be noises. By the Rinse Mode they are gone and wont come back.
On some engines INTERNAL sensors for engine light -oil light-temperature gage will act in an erratic manner during the cleaning phase. Do not be alarmed as Auto-Rx is removing sludge found on sensors.(lights-etc flashing-staying on) NOT INDICATIVE OF A PROBLEM Gages will return to normal operating condition after rinse phase.
The reason for the change in mileage for the cleaning phase increase from 1,500 miles up to 2,500 miles is to maximize the effectiveness of the cleaning phase.
The product formulation has not changed. Users with heavily sludged motors should take note to change out the oil filter at 1,250 miles during this phase. The other hidden benefit is that the host oil during the cleaning phase is run for an extra 1,000 miles, which provides for greater economy.
Used oil analysis was the primary consideration for extending the cleaning phase. Wear metals remained amazingly low over 2,500 miles of cleaning. The host oil, with the cleaning dose of Auto-Rx®, remained healthy and fully serviceable. The folks at Auto-Rx® always put safe cleaning a priority in providing instructions. Group III oils such as Penzoil Platinum provide great cleaning and rinse performance for those who feel the need to run a more durable oil in the cleaning and rinse phase when compared to a dirt-cheap dino oil.
If you have never cleaned your lubrication systems before, it will take
2 bottles for a passenger car under 100,000 miles. It will take one a full bottle to run the cleaning phase in the motor. It will take one-half bottle to treat the automatic transmission. It will normally take 1 to 2 fluid ounces to clean up a power steering unit. This will leave you two to three maintenance dose applications after the initial cleaning of the motor. See the application instructions for greater detail.
If your passenger car or light truck has over 100,000 miles, or has become sludged, it is recommended that you buy three bottles. It is recommended that you run two motor cleaning applications. The third bottle should be used for the transmission, power steering, and maintenance doses.
In both cases above, you have enough product to achieve the maximum desired results in most cases.
Take advantage of the quantity discounts available on the order page.
Absolutely! Auto-Rx® was created specifically for the do-it-yourselfer. Anyone can easily apply our product using these simple application instructions:
Install a new oil filter to catch all the debris that will be removed from your engine.
Pour one 12-ounce bottle of Auto-Rx® into the oil reservoir, as though you are adding oil.
Drive your car as you would normally for 1,500 miles (see Application Instructions)
Get a regular oil change and replace the oil filter.
We have seen customers get extraordinary results after only one application of Auto-Rx®. But for best results, we recommend that you use it every 25,000 miles. Engines with more than 100,000 miles will need two applications of Auto-Rx® as there is so much oil debris buildup that needs to be removed.
As an alternative to the 25,000 interval, you may add a maintenance dose of 3 ounces of Auto-Rx® with each oil change. This will assure that sludge will not build up after the initial cleaning and will provide full-time protection.
The maintenance plan is our Extended Performance Program. It is your assurance that the gains you received from your application will continue. Left unchecked, contaminants and sludge will return. For most engines a maintenance dose of 3 ounces with each oil change will maintain the benefits you received from your Auto-Rx® application. For those engines that are prone to sludge, you should use 3 ounces as your maintenance dose. After a full cleaning has been completed, then you can maintain your engine on just the maintenance dose in the future. For more information on using the maintenance plan with an oil-burning issue, please contact us directly by email.
Oil analysis with the maintenance dose on the Auto-Rx® website shows reduced wear metals in extended drains. But the real beauty from running the maintenance dose is in retarding the formation of engine deposits in the future.
Using fresh oil is an option most of the time. Exceptions would be contaminated oil, which would have to be changed. Many people want to see the color of the new clean oil after an Auto-Rx® application, which is understandable. However, another person may not want the added expense of starting with clean oil.
Oil does not wear out; it just gets dirty. No oil, new or old, regular or synthetic, cleans carbon off metal, so there is nothing bad in old oil, just plain dirt. Auto-Rx® is going to suspend the dirt in the old oil while it goes about cleaning the oil-lubricated rotating parts. Auto-Rx® has an additive package built in its chemistry to perk up dirty oil while it is in use.
Auto-Rx® can be added to any engine with 4, 6, or 8 cylinders (even inboard boat engines).
The only engine Auto-Rx® will not work in a 2-stroke engine, such as those in motorcycles or lawnmowers, because Auto-Rx® does not mix with gasoline.
Auto-Rx® will not damage any oil-lubricated parts of an engine, including seals. Auto-Rx® is a specially formulated green chemistry (not harmful to the environment) that cleans metal without using toxic substances.
It does not act like so-called friction reducers designed to disguise mechanical problems that need the attention of a professional mechanic. In fact, 99 percent of the time, poor performance will be caused by oil debris buildup between piston rings. Auto-Rx® addresses engine problems caused by brown carbon (sludge).
NO! The inexpensive solvent flushes that you find in the auto parts store use powerful solvents that can be destructive to your engine and seals. These products are "shock solvents." They can only be kept in the engine a short time and have a tendency to break off large chunks of sludge that can get trapped in the engine oil passages. Clogged oil passages can cause engine failure. Oil is also negatively affected by the introduction of a solvent; it changes the chemistry of the oil, whereas Auto-Rx® does not.
Auto-Rx® works slowly, methodically, and efficiently and will take approximately 1,500 miles to do its job. Engine deposits are formed layer by layer; they should be removed layer by layer. Auto-Rx® does exactly that.
It does not matter what type of oil you use for the cleaning phase of the Auto-Rx® application. However, for maximum results, we recommend that you use plain, non-synthetic oil for the Rinse Phase. Please see Application Instructions for complete details.
We recommend simple, non-synthetic oil (do not use semi-synthetic or high-mileage oil) for this important step in the Auto-Rx® Application. Synthetic oil has a complex additive package that polarizes the liquefied debris on the internal oil-lubricated engine parts.
The goal is to rinse this liquefied debris from all the internal parts; a good "dino oil" with its simple additive package does the job very well.
&Quot;Dino oil" is an informal name for standard, non-synthetic oil. It is presumed that the remains of dinosaurs contributed to the formation of petroleum thousands of years ago.
If you are running your application with synthetic oil, the oil color will not change much. This is due to the additive package found in synthetic oil, which has a tendency to bind the softened deposits to the metal.
It is during the ?Rinse Phase that you can expect your oil to become darker (see next question below). However, if you want to see visual results quicker, you should run the entire application with non-synthetic oil.
After you drain your oil and Auto-Rx®, the new, fresh oil will rinse any remaining residue from internal engine surfaces. Although engine benefits have already taken place, it will take another 1,000 miles or so (2,500 miles on a diesel engine) to fully clean off the residue, and it will be gone after your next regular oil change.
Depending on the amount of contaminants removed, your oil may be very dark after this rinse.
Varnish is nothing more than a cosmetic stain; it does not affect the performance of your engine. Auto-Rx® does clean off the varnish, but due to varying engine designs, it is impossible to give an exact timeframe. Be assured that functional improvements have taken place when Auto-Rx® is used according to instructions.
We believe that high-mileage engines using synthetic/semi-synthetic or high-mileage oil weaken the seal material and it loses its pliability.
For those who have rear main oil seal leaks and want to use Auto-Rx® to try and stop them, we tell them to use non-synthetic oil to firm up the seal material after Auto-Rx® has cleaned it, as the chemistry in non-synthetic oil makes seals harden just right to effect a tight seal. After your leak is stopped, you can use any oil you want
We question why anyone would want to go back to a chemistry that will start the process of seal material degradation all over again. One way around this problem is to use 3 ounces of Auto-Rx® with each oil change after a rear main seal leak is stopped. Now you are protecting seal degradation and can use synthetic, semi-synthetic, or high-mileage oil without creating a new leak problem.
Auto-Rx® is compatible with ball bearings, seals, etc. In fact, turbochargers create a lot of heat and are quite taxing on the oil or lubricant. Life expectancy of a turbocharger is typically tied to oil failure due to heat and would thus be a perfect candidate for Auto-Rx®. Keeping the system clean is key to life expectancy.
The addition of Auto-Rx® to the host lubricant will have no harmful effect on the wet clutch pack surfaces. In fact, it may actually help by cleaning any contamination from combustion by-products that may have formed on the plate surfaces.
The addition of Auto-Rx® will not adversely affect the sheer stability of the host oil. In fact, Auto-Rx® contains, as part of its formulation, an aliphatic ester, which is commonly used as the base oil in aircraft lubricants. This ingredient is designed to maintain oil film strength so as to eliminate any chance of a dry spot within an oil film.
Your mechanic or dealer can determine if your engine has sludge issues. To find out if your engine model is one of those that has had problems, please read this article from Consumer Reports or, for more information, go to The Center for Auto Safety.
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