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Makes Me Want to Go Out and Drive

A little over three weeks ago, the automatic transmission in my wife’s ’95 Explorer unexpectedly failed; it cost $2,800 to rebuild using all top-quality, upgraded parts. We also have a ’76 Chevrolet C20 pickup and an ’83 Ford F250IHD 4×4 pickup, both of which have automatics. I bought the Chevy six years ago, and the transmission had been rebuilt two years before that. Since that time, I’ve totally restored this truck and replaced the worn-out 350 V8 with another 350 V8, based on a 2000 Vortec 1-ton short block, but with AFR cylinder heads. This engine puts out over 350 hp. Over the last few months, the transmission has begun to fail. To go into gear upon a cold start, I would start the engine and put the trans in gear, but nothing would happen until I put it in neutral and revved the engine a few times. I checked that level of the ATF (of course, after fully warming it up, and with the trans in park), and it was where it should be.

When my wife’s transmission failed, I took the opportunity to talk to the trans tech about what my C20’s transmission was doing. He told me that if the fluid was full, then it was likely that rubber parts inside the trans were becoming hard. After reading a lot about Auto-Rx® at in the additive section, I decided to give it a try in the C20 transmission. What piqued my interest about Auto-Rx® was its propensity to recondition engine seals. I reasoned that it just might recondition the hardened rubber parts in my trans that were causing the problems. I added Auto-Rx® to the ATF in the C20, and within a few days the false neutral problem began to be less severe. Instead of having to shift into neutral and rev the engine, I could simply wait a few moments and the trans would engage into whatever gear I selected. After a week, the false neutral problem stopped happening. It has now been about three weeks since it last happened, and it used to happen at least every other day. It appears that my hunch was right. Auto-Rx® has indeed rejuvenated the rubber parts in my trans, or whatever parts were causing the problem. I still have over 500 miles to go on the C20 treatment before I drop the pan, change the filter, and then hook it up to my shop’s flush machine for a total trans flush with new ATF.

As for the F250, it has 100,000 miles on it, and it still has the original C6 automatic transmission. The original owner of the truck had been in the habit of having the trans flushed (as opposed to pan drop, drain and fill) every 30,000 miles, and when I bought the truck, I was advised to flush the trans soon, since this truck was used to regular trans flushes. When I dropped the pan and changed the filter, I was impressed with how clean the trans internals where. It really is a testimony of how important regular auto trans maintenance is! Anyway, I flushed the trans and was impressed with how nicely the trans shifted, especially for being 22 years old and for being behind a healthy 460. At the same time thatI put Auto-Rx into the C20, I also put it into the F250, mainly just as a precaution since it is so old. I figured that it would just give it an extra-thorough cleaning and rejuvenate any internal rubber parts that may need it. Imagine my surprise when my wife and I noticed that both trucks were shifting more positively and crisply! Even though I had not felt the F250 trans could be improved, it WAS improved by Auto-Rx®. The C20 not only has stopped having its false-neutral problem, but the trans is shifting noticeably better with more responsive kick-downs and crisper shifts. I am so impressed with what Auto-Rx® is doing in my transmissions in such a short time, I am finding excuses to go out and drive the trucks in order to move the Auto-Rx® process along.

One final note for now: There are lots of auto trans additives that use sealants and other “quick-fix” ingredients, but these are short-term solutions. I’ve read extensively about this, and Auto-Rx is different because it does not modify the characteristics of the ATF itself. Instead, it uses the ATF as a carrier to distribute itself to all lubricated areas of the . Once there, it simply cleans the metals, the seals, and everything it contacts. It does this by emulsifying deposits, converting them into liquid form, so they can be carried away and filtered out. Once you drain out the ATF/Auto-Rx® mixture, your trans is left thoroughly clean. If you have mechanical problems, Auto-Rx® will not help, but if your problems are related to deposits and other buildups, then Auto-Rx® will help. I will continue to send in updates as I progress through the Auto-Rx® treatments in my C20 and F250. Obviously, so far, so good. Everything I’ve written here is my actual experience and is true.